Hi! I have been in Bolzano for 3 full days There have been challenges along the way but the universe has delivered solutions to all but one of them. Getting a disposable cell phone is in my hands; the “unlock phone genie” is not showing up.
The weather has been hot at the foot of the Dolomite Alps. In response to weather reports of thunder storms I brought 6 pair of socks. I dislike wearing shoes, let alone socks. It’s that hot that leaves a thin film of perspiration that demands an afternoon shower. Sunny days with warm temperature help ripen the grapes that make the exceptional wine from Alto Adige. Their harvest is late September into October.
It’s been a great learning curve; I feel like I am the first to chronicle the information I need. I have made several winery connections, a helpful accommodations guru and looking to develop ones with the local tourism offices. Yes, plural; local to the “city”, then “county” and overall region.
Enough of the “I” for a bit.
In a nutshell Sudtirol was part of the Hapsburg Empire and was Austrian until the end of World War I. The Austrians living in the area wanted to stay part of Austria and as you know the victors write the history. Northern Italians were relocated here and the culture did a bit of an Italian move. After World War II the region “won” the right to be autonomous. German, Italian and Ladin are the languages spoken in the area. Tourist English is around a bit, thank goodness or I would be still flipping through Rick Steve’s phrase book. The mix of the two cultures provides business punctuality and a laid back attitude; do I read SoCal in this?
Several resources found on line have yielded mixed results, a couple of “yes, this is what I need” and others “really,” these are over ambitious claims. Walking “weinstrasse” without wineries to taste or this is a must see that is a “view”. I am working on the wine experience angle to ensure it is magical; those resources are slow and steady.
That said, yesterday I felt that I was on top of the world at Corna del Renon. One bus, two cable cars, a local train and an hour hike brought me to a 2040 meter panoramic vantage point with views of the Dolomites ranging from 1700 – 3900 meters were at eye level. The scent of pine, buzz of bees, clang of cows bells provided background for many stops to enjoy the scenery and catch my breath.
Here’s an interesting note, my thirst quenching lemonade is 3.6 Euros and a glass of local wine is 2.8 Euros.
If you are into “power” hiking or mountain (and I mean mountain) biking this is for you. Sticks and bikes are welcome on trains and cable cars. The stunning scenery distracts you from the steep uphill sections. Flatlanders will enjoy the speed and convenience of biking around the city; women in heels and men in suits are biking around the city.
After three 1 hour hikes and one 2 hour hike I savored an Iced Coffee treat – read thick vanilla gelato, freshly brewed Italian coffee, whipped cream and roasted coffee beans sitting on the piazza / platz under twelve foot square umbrellas making notes of the day. Ahh, dolce far niente: need enjoy more of that. When the sun advanced the waitstaff didn’t miss a beat as they “dropped” the umbrellas for us to enjoy blue skies, mountains and the delightful breeze.
Next post will be from a wine perspective. Yes I need to down load photos. Please send me your comments.
Lovely writing Leandra. Very enjoyable reading and mental pictures of your adventure.
Enjoy everything you can soak in
Ciao Bella
Diane